In search of sister wives in the sister cities of Colorado City and Hildale

Once the largest, most secretive polygamous enclave in America, we wanted to see Short Creek with our own eyes.

Straddling the border of Arizona and Utah are two fundamentalist Mormon towns, best known for their practice of plural marriages and religious association with the Fundamentalist Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-Day Saints. Thanks to my fascination with documentaries about religious cults, we found ourselves making a quick pit stop in Colorado City and Hildale (collectively known as Short Creek) on our journey to Zion National Park in April 2018.

Truth be told, there was not much to see there.

For a community that had for generations, been closed off to the rest of the country, it didn't seem like it was opening up just yet.

We saw huge houses set back really far from the road, surrounded by tall fences.

No surprise. After all, a polygamist needs a big home fit for all his wives and children – and fences to keep away prying eyes (like ours). But some gates were wide open when we drove by, which gave us a quick sneaky peeks into their secretive lives...

One house even had a fortress-like gate.

Tbh, that was a little weird. It looked like a Disneyland castle, polygamy edition.

The empty streets made the town feel abandoned, when it wasn't.

With massive homes all around, it was really weird not seeing a single soul outside. We drove on overly wide streets, and parked in huge parking space near shops and restaurants. There was little sign of life and it was so strange, yet incredibly fascinating at the same time.

But the city's only local bar could be a sign of change.

For a community that used to ban alcohol completely, it was surprising to even find a bar in the first place. As we stepped foot inside, we were welcomed by a refreshing atmosphere of normalcy and comfort. Taking a sip on the Arizona-brewed beers helped to calm our nerves a little (exploring this place took some guts!).

People were not as suspicious, unfriendly or hostile as we thought they would be. Granted, the only person we really spoke to was the server... And it did feel like everyone knew we weren't local (and obviously so, with my Asian face). We later found out that the bar had just opened its doors the same month we visited! Perhaps we truly were the pioneering foreign customers. :P

Judging from our luck (or lack of it), I was resigned to the fact that we were going to leave town without seeing any fundamentalist Mormons in the flesh.

...Until we caught sight of a little boy in a dress shirt, running after a ball outside his home.

It all happened too quickly and he disappeared within a few seconds as we drove off. But his attire DEFINITELY gave it away. What child dresses like that while playing?!?

FLDS boys playing soccer (Photo credit: The Salt Lake Tribune)

I wish I caught the moment on camera, but it'll just have to live in my memory. And still no girls and women in prairie dresses to be found, though.

Half-built, abandoned homes were also a common sight.

Was it a sign that people had left the community, or decided to stop being polygamous (hence eliminating the need for a big house)? Eric's guess was that FLDS members lacked access to credit, so they simply stopped building when they ran out of funds.

Despite the desolate atmosphere, the natural setting was gorgeous.

Perched beneath red-rock cliffs and surrounded by soaring mountains, the cities' natural beauty was in stark contrast to the haunting stories of manipulation and abuse that I've read about the local FLDS church and its loyal followers.

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We left as the sun set. The former church leader, Warren Jeffs, had already been put behind bars for 12 years during our brief time there. It remains to be seen how much more of Short Creek will change by the next time we're in town.

And we'll need to plan another trip to Zion National Park to find out. :D