We went on a trek in Sapa, and SHE was after us

Boy, was it one hell of a hike.

When we planned a trip to visit northern Vietnam with two of our best friends, trekking in Sapa was THE thing we knew we had to do. Tucked away in the mountains are some of the most beautiful scenery in Vietnam, and venturing into the hills with a guide was the best way to experience it for ourselves.

Sapa is stunning if you get there at the right time with the right weather. When it's not too foggy, there are panoramic views of rolling hills covered in rice fields all around. We visited in December and the padi fields weren't lush green like they'd be in the summer, but they were no less spectacular.

Endless rice fields in Sapa, Vietnam

We left it to our airbnb host to make arrangements for the trek. We woke up the next morning to loud motors, screeching chickens, barking dogs – and our guide for the 2-day journey. She came in her traditional dress and sandals (for a trek!), and greeted us with a kind, unassuming smile.

Meet Lala, our local Hmong guide

Thinking back on that moment we met, this was the woman who would decide where we'd go, what we'd eat and where we'd stay for the next two days. The four of us had absolutely no clue what was in store for us, readily entrusting her with our lives.

Little did we know that what started out as an inconspicuous hike, would very soon turn into an epic, heart-pumping episode of The Great Sapa Escape.

Trekking out the local way of life

We passed local villages, crossed bridges, navigated through rice fields, and went on a strenuous hike up very steep hills (WAAAY steeper than what you can see in the photo above). Eventually, we reached a resting spot where we could take a group photo. We even saw some wild goats!

After a short break we continued on our journey, and later arrived at a "border crossing" in the middle of the mountains, where we were stopped by a man in uniform stationed in a guardhouse. As Lala negotiated with him in their local language, we somehow guessed from their body language that we were NOT allowed to cross into the territory he was guarding, because we didn't have a permit. Either that, or Lala wasn't an authorised person to have one.

We asked Lala if it was possible for us to pay for the permit. She simply shook her head and shrugged uncomfortably. It seemed like Lala was at a loss about what to do next. For reasons that nobody could clearly explain, she couldn't take us through to the homestay she had originally planned for us, and now needed a Plan B.

Just hanging out with two little local kids by the gantry across the guardhouse. We were as clueless about what was happening as they were. Perhaps the sign in the background of this photo could be a hint...

We couldn't go any further, so what then?

After loitering for a bit, Lala led us away. It seemed like she had a new idea.

And that's when and where the epic escape began.

For the next part of the trek, Lala had only three things to say:

"SHE watching"

"SHE following"

"SHE coming"

Her body language was increasingly anxious, and she repeatedly warned us (in her broken English) that we had seemingly gotten into trouble with a particular 'SHE'.

(To this day, we believe that She could've very well been a He. But we'll never find out, nor will we know who he/she was that made Lala so, so afraid.)

Next thing we knew, Lala had hurried us into the bush and off the beaten path, and urgently told us to dash through the wild grass and tall shrubs – AS FAST AS WE COULD. It suddenly felt like we were in serious and immediate danger.

We felt like wanted fugitives on the run.

It was easy to fuel our adrenaline with some dramatic speculations.

"Is someone going to shoot us?"

"Are we doing something illegal right now?"

"If we get caught, are we going to get deported?"

Imagine the relief when we finally emerged on the other side of the bush, unscathed.

All smiles, one ded – WE GOT OUT!

Or rather, we got away. From SHE, whoever that was.

Check out Lala's wide grin with a tinge of embarrassment as she squeezed me on her shoulder as I laid exhaustedly on the ground... as though squeezing away my exhaustion. #DED

At this point, we learnt from Lala that we were only a short distance away from Lala's maiden home, where we were welcomed by her mother and fed lunch. This was Lala's Plan B! The meal was nothing noteworthy, but we sure needed it after an intense morning of long treks and fast escapes.

Bellies full, we resumed our trek. As we left, Eric saw a man shaving his face using the mirror of a motorcycle, and a giant machete knife! First, a crazy hike, then a crazy sight. How much more crazy will we encounter on this trip?!

We continued to make our way through the mountains, across more rice fields, forests and rapids. No more precarious situations, only more nature that brought peace to our hearts.

As the sun started to set, we finally stepped foot on paved roads and arrived at our alternative accommodation for the night. What a day it had been!

We continued our trek with Lala the next day, back to our airbnb in Sapa. This time though, there wasn't anyone watching, following, or coming for us.

SHE might no longer be after us, but SHE will always remain etched in our memories.

So will Lala.